In what Hass calls a ???folkloric??? arrival, she entered Gaza in a car with forged Palestinian license plates made for her by friends in the Jabaliya refugee camp. ???Gaza was intense, but it was easier in a way than the West Bank,??? she said. ???As a typical Eastern European Jew, I found Gaza to be a form of diaspora, a shtetl sort of life.??? In Gaza, Hass picked up a working knowledge of Arab