I hoped it would be the Sagrada Familia, one of the most famous churches in the world, the unfinished masterwork of Antoni Gaudi.The church towers imposed themselves on my view, four of them in front, four of them in back, rising like gigantic, skeletal missiles -- or, since Gaudi was a vegetarian, let's say asparagus spears.As I approached the Sagrada Familia, my first thought was not of spiritua