Here in the heart of the Balkans ???where Bulgarians, Serbs, Croatians, Macedonians, Bosnians, Albanians, Greeks, and Turks had all been ready and willing to slaughter each another (and some were in fact doing just that even as I stood gazing at this scrap of velvet) ???this cover was an unexpected message from another place and another violent struggle over a different piece of land, the one from