Heckathorn tried them all and found the dishes ???full of herbs and citrus???and, like many Middle Eastern foods, [put] together [in] combinations that you don???t anticipate.??? His favorite, khoresh bademjoon, was a more familiar combo of beef, tomato and eggplant. ???Equally wonderful was the herbed yogurt ... a thick, soft comfort food, as high-fat as possible.???Reviewed in our October 2007 i